February 2009

Hi everyone… welcome back! I’m sure you’ve all noticed how the frequency of posts has plummeted but, fortunately for us, it’s a good thing. We’ve been out ‘n about seeing new cities in Southern France. 

The second week of February was Linn’s winter vacation so he, a few of his classmates and I went to Bordeaux for three nights. We also had the opportunity to go with a friend, by car, to the city of Avingnon and the nearby Pont du Gard. The last day of February, I went (while Linn was studying for upcoming exams) with some friends to Uzès, another nearby city.

Two full days in Bordeaux resulted in a number of terrific winery visits for everyone. The first day the seven Vinifera guys had three appointments at Chateaux in the Medoc. They visited Chateau la Tour, Chateau Sociando’ Mallet and Chateau Margaux.  Their gracious hosts at each Chateau arranged facilities tours and tastings for them. While they were on cloud nine in the Medoc, I walked and photographed the city of Bordeaux. It is a gorgeous city that has recently completed a massive overhaul with the addition of a three-line tram system and rather long river- side park. They’ve updated and enhanced their botanical gardens and there are plenty of centuries- old buildings to visit too. That night we had a proper French dinner complete with wine, bread and dishes like onion soup, fish soup, steamed mussels, salmon steak with pasta, sauce smothered chicken with potatoes and steaks. Oh and I had better not leave out the desserts: crème brulée, crème caramel, citrus tart, bowls of ice cream all served with a sip of espresso.

The following day, all eight of us went to Pomerol and St. Emillion for more winery tours and tasting. This was the day that everyone was looking forward to, as we were able to get into Petrus in Pomerol and Chateau Angelus in St. Emillion. Both are two very big names and difficult, if not impossible, to secure appointments at. Again, we were given tours and able to taste one wine at each place. Pomerol is hardly a dot on the map and if it weren’t for Petrus I’m not sure anyone would be familiar with this appellation. St. Emillion is an old, small villiage with many boutiques, wine shops and restaurants though many were shuttered for the season. It is, however, a conveniently placed town offering its guests food and lodging between winery visits. Even though it is a slow time of year, I found it interesting how sleepy the region was. I imagine that during peak season these same small villages manage to expand to accommodate the influx of people, but it wasn’t apparent how that would happen.

 

A friend of ours with a car organized a small trip to nearby Avignon and after a night of heavy drinking it was just the three of us who went. We drove to Avignon but stopped at the Pont du Gard (the ancient roman aqueduct) to see it while we were in “the neighborhood.” It looks just like every picture I had ever seen, an enormous ancient aqueduct out in nature that you can walk up to. What you can’t see in those photos are all of the walking trails in the area with look out points. Nor can you see the visitors parking lots on the east and west river banks that charge you 5 Euros to park and offer no alternatives. It was a great piece of history to see and it only takes an hour or so to walk around and snap a bunch of photos.

Avignon is probably best known for three things: today it is still a fortified (walled) city, within those walls is the Palais du Papes (the Pope’s palace) and outside the walls over the river stretches the Pont d’Avignon. We drove around the perimeter of the city, past the “Pont” and parked to tour the Palais du Papes. Starting in 1309 Avignon was home to 9 Popes. Construction on the palace began in 1335 and took nearly 20 years to complete.  It is a massive place with many additions over the twenty years of construction. After the last Pope left Avignon in 1403 it was used as residence for papal legates until it was looted during the French Revolution. It was then used as a barracks until 1906. Today it belongs to the city and all that exists is the structure itself and some frescoes, tile work and other decorative detail. Through an audio tour they attempt to describe what the spaces would have looked like back then. There were some amazing rooms with dramatically vaulted ceilings, and the kitchen was the smallest room with an octagonal shaped vaulted ceiling that was open at the top as a vent. It was an amazing site to visit.

It has been a great month, it has been nice to get out and see more of this great country. If you are planning a trip to France Bordeaux is a must see. The city is gorgeous and there is plenty to see and do. If wine excites you, there are so many terrific, famous wineries in and around the region. Avignon and Uzès are smaller cities with old, old Architecture and in the area of several sites on the UNESCO World Heritage list. One other site, not on that list, but if you’re in “the neighborhood” is the Haribo candy factory. They have a museum that guests can tour to learn about the creation of the famous gummy candies and of course a huge boutique to buy the sweet treats.